Clothes Make the Man…And the Banker
I know it’s been covered many times, by many people, but I wouldn’t feel good about myself if I didn’t include my wardrobe $0.02 into the site. So, without further ado…
Suits: The heart of the investment banker wardrobe. You should have at least two suits of good quality. Good quality does not have to be a $1500 custom suit by any means – think Jos A Bank sale, or preferably, Nordstrom (their half yearly men’s sale begins Friday – June19th ) or Brooks Brothers sale (Brooks Brothers Outlet is even better if you can get to one). Regarding color, no blacks please, this is not a funeral. Stick to Navy blues and mid-to-charcoal gray – use some common sense based on complexion here as well. Regarding pattern, thin subtle pin stripes are always nice, window pane is fine – though definitely more brash – use your best judgment, and remember conservative, yet simple and modesty is key. Solid suits are fine in the aforementioned colors as well, but I would not go with a solid pattern for both suits – one solid, one pattern is definitely a sound idea and adds a bit of fun to your otherwise gray and blue wardrobe (although I realize it will still probably be either blue or gray). Also, unless you are really tall (above probably 6’5), I generally prefer the two-button suit, as opposed to the three-button suit. And finally, make sure, and I can’t stress this enough, that your suits fit well and are tailored – a suit that costs $2,000, but isn’t tailored properly will look like it’s worth $50 on your back. Bottom line – two suits, good quality, gray/navy, solid or subtle patterned, and get it tailored.
Shirts: A good number of button-downs, think around 15 (especially if you can get some on sale) to start with (yes, I like a lot of shirts), and try to stick to the whites and various shades of blue here – greens and other modest colors are sometimes fine, but this is on a case by case basis based on your group, so start with the whites and blues. Regarding patterns, I have always been a fan of the subtle grid pattern, but simple stripes and other patterns, as well as solids are also perfectly fine – as always, simple is best. Shop smart – Brooks Brothers has a nice sale a few times a year where a lot of their button-downs go on sale for 50% off, Jos A Bank is constantly running some sort of blowout sale, and Nordstrom is about to hold its half yearly men’s sale (I particularly like the fit of Nordstrom’s Nordstrom brand shirts and Brooks Brothers wrinkle free shirts always work out well) so just be patient. Bottom line – several shirts to start with, whites and blues, simple patterns are fine, and shop smart by waiting for the sales to do the bulk of your buying.
Ties: Ties are tricky, and depending on the office, they may be required five days-per-week, four, or none in which case they would only be required for client meetings. The important thing to remember about ties is to keep them simple, but not boring as ties add spice and personality to your wardrobe. Regarding patterns, simple stripes, a light-hearted pattern such as those animal characters or sail boats found in Brooks Brothers or Vineyard Vines is fine – stay away from Hermes or Ferragamo ties at first – you don’t want your boss to see you sporting a Hermes tie and Ferragamo loafers pre-bonus. Regarding the colors, I like to stick with reds (not bright red, but like a burgundy color), blues (again, not an electric blue, but a subtle blue) and yellows (again, no neons here). Regarding the number of ties, that’s a judgment call depending on how often you have to wear them – assuming business casual office, and ties are only worn for client meetings, I would slowly accrue at least 5-10 ties to complement different shirts and suits, but you should definitely have at least 3 right off the bat just in case. Bottom line – unless you are wearing a tie daily, accrue them over time, but start with at least 3, stick to reds, yellows and blues, simple patterns, and remember, stay away from the big names at first – some senior team member would not like you wearing a more expensive tie than them as an intern or new 1st year.
Pants: Several pairs will be necessary, assume 4 or 5 pairs to start with (excluding suits). Regarding colors, stick with navy, grays, tans and stone. Regarding patterns, I prefer solids, and subtle pinstripes or other patterns such as herringbone and windowpane – again, it just adds some personality to the outfit. Black pants are alright, but I usually wear black on rainy days – just not a cheery nice day color to me. Bottom line – several pairs in gray and navy of a few different patterns will more than suffice.
Socks: Should match your pants. The exception is when you are wearing tan or stone pants; in this case your socks should match your shoes – don’t ask, just do.
Shoes: Two pairs of shoes (one black and one brown or two black) – I like to have three pairs just to have a pair of black shoes as the really nasty weather pair, but we’re talking about essentials and you can always add to the collection later. Stay away from Ferragamo, Gucci, Prada, etc, until bonuses come around. You don’t want your boss thinking you’ve got plenty of money and don’t need that bonus. Stick with Johnston and Murphy and Cole Haan (I prefer J&M) here – also, shop sales (I know I keep saying it, but I think it’s worth repeating). Regarding shoe style, lace-ups are generally considered the most formal, although loafers are acceptable in most if not all situations as well. I would initially stay away from wing tip shoes (seen as more casual than cap toes), but cap toes are absolutely acceptable, especially as the primary black shoes worn with a suit. A disclaimer about cap toe shoes: be sure to try them on and walk around with them on in the store before making the purchase, as some cap toe shoes bend in an odd way depending on sizing and material, which causes a good deal of pain in the toes, to the point where you are better off not making the purchase at all (both my VP and I had this sort of an experience with a cap toe shoe). Bottom line: Two pairs to start with, at least one black, laced up are usually considered more formal, but loafers are equally acceptable.
Final Note: Regarding the full suit, black shoes are always worn with navy suits and black suits (I know navy pants go very well with brown shoes, but a suit is a different animal entirely). Brown shoes are always worn with brown and tan suits. Gray suits can be worn with black shoes or brown shoes, but I prefer black shoes – it just presents a more professionals appearance in my opinion.
Stay tuned for several upcoming articles on networking, analyst responsibilities and banker interviews! Stay in the loop via RSS, Email, LinkedIn, and Twitter, and, as always, drop me an email with any questions or suggestions!

Great article once again.
Unfortunatelly I have to disagree with you in whar concerns black suits. Black suits with a small pin stripe look great (but this is just my opinion). Regarding shirts I would add no bottons on the colar and no pocket. Regarding shoes I believe everybody should wear rubber sole shoes from Prada Sport, they are discrete (in fact they look like any other shoe) but are very confortable.
Thank you very much. I was mainly referring to solid black suits (should have been more specific) – although I am a bigger fan of navy and gray, black suits with a pin stripe definitely work well, especially with a nice tie. I think if you’re going to start with just a few shirts, no-button collars (pocket or pocketless isn’t bad, pocketless is a bit more conservative) are preferable as they are definitely more professional. However, if you are going on a bit of a spree (as in 10-15 shirts right off the bat), I would throw in a few button-down collars (assuming you don’t have to wear suits everyday), as they add a nice twist to the wardrobe and eliminate the need for collar stays (which are also a must for non-button collar shirts). I’ve also worn ties with button-down collars and it is absolutely professional and acceptable, although not as conservative – so again this is office/group specific. Finally, I’m not familiar with the Prada Sport shoes, but rubber soles are completely fine, unless the rubber comes partially up the back of the shoe as well (then it’s just too casual). I still like J&M and Cole Haan in terms of a first pair or so just to avoid any negative impressions with more senior guys at the start – I know of a few guys who had a tough time and made a bad initial impression on the team because day 1 they were sporting some $550 Ferragamos – again, every group is different. Definitely some good tips though…thanks for the feedback!
Solid post.
An important item would be what I like to call the “Gordon Gecko” attire…Stay away from french cuff shirts in which the collar and cuffs are white. As far as french cuff is concerned, you just have to feel out what is acceptable at your firm. I personally wore them when I first started as an analyst, but never white cuffs and collar.
I see some people from time to time sporting the white cuff and collar blue/green/etc french cuff shirt, but it is not for me. I agree; I don’t care for the look, but if it’s common around the office, then who am I to judge.
I’ll come forth and admit it – I’ve yet to have one of my suits/shirts tailored, as they’re a decent, but not a perfect fit. That being said, could someone shed some light on the whole tailoring process? I’m curious as to where to go, how much to spend, what to ask for, and what to avoid. Thanks!
It depends of what you are looking for: bespoke, where the suit is made using your mesures and with severall fittings taking place to insure optimal results (think the majority of saville row taylors) or a something in between ready to wear and bespoke, where your mesures are taken and then a new suit is made for you using standard models but adapted to your mesures (think zegna’s su misura). Regarding bespoke I have no idea about the prices, regarding su misura its around 200€ more than a ready to wear from zegna (I don’t know about other brands).
Black is really not appropriate at the office and makes you look like a bit of a tool. As far as french cuffs go, they’re generally fine as long as you aren’t sporting flashy cuff links. If you do own and plan to wear french cuff shirts, try to wear silk knots instead, as they are much more low key but still get the job done. I know this is different in the UK where many wear french cuff shirts and more people at lower levels wear cuff links, but it’s not really as acceptable at US banks.
A similar post on appropriate wear for Women in Banking would be appreciated.
Sharon,
Thanks for the feedback and recommendation. Do you currently work in the industry. While I know some women that work in banking, I’d love to have a reader in the field share their thoughts through an article – I’d publish it and of course give credit where credit is due.
IBanker